From Goa.. With Love: An Exploration Of Beachy Food And Cocktail Harmony
For many years now, one of the high points of this writer’s calendar has been to hit the beaches in Goa and soak in the sun while tanning along the shoreline. Shacks are the best places to head to in Goan towns for their comfy seating and easy accessibility to restaurants and bars which set up these arrangements for guests. Having a cocktail on the beach while eating a plateful of calamari rings on the shack or a beach restaurant then becomes an interesting activity while on holiday.
And then there is the other side of this state’s beachy culture which is complete with a mix of Konkani and Goan practices. Varied culinary preparations ranging from vindaloo curries and prawn balchao to cocktails like a feni and tonic and an urrack and tender coconut smash resonate with these hyper local cultures that continue to lend the shores of Goa their own distinct flair.
My food and drink favourites while holidaying here come from this blend of the two cultures which is a mix of touristy flair with local Goan culinary and mixology staples. These are some of my most sought after pairings which dive deep into the regional and beachy touch the preparations have to offer.
Curry And Spice
Heading to a shack like Brittos in Goa always evokes such a touristy vibe of being on vacation yet simultaneously grabbing a quick bite before stepping out onto the beach. And while at such a shack, one really special, spicy dish that can be tried out is the prawn recheado, which is certainly not for the faint hearted. It is a spicy curry, finished off with a peppery and tangy red masala in which prawns are cooked to sheer perfection.
Recheado is served most commonly with steamed rice which tapers down some of its spiciness. What makes for an interesting pairing with this dish is the feni mojito, made using 30 ml of the local cashew liqueur whose distinctly pungent flavours cut through the spice and acidity of the prawn curry.
Goan Classics I Cannot Do Without!
My first visit to Goa was quite memorable. It came rather late in life when I believed that all of popular culture had exhausted every element of vacation wonder that Goa held for me. But I was in for a surprise.
Not only do Goan beaches offer a glimpse of the vastness and infinity of their salty oceanic waters that is quite transcendental in itself but what lies in wait is a very vibrant gastronomical culture that is complete with abundant flavour. I discovered this food culture as a gateway to rendezvous with a side of Goa that was immersed in such utter local flair.
One of the first experiences of this Goan feel came in the form of chicken xacuti. This is a curry made in a masala of coconut shavings roasted in different spices. It has a smoky and slightly umami touch which can sometimes become just a tad overpowering. I ordered xacuti with paratha at a local hole in the wall dive and what made for a crisp flavour break was a kokum fizz prepared by bringing together 10 ml kokum syrup with 20 ml feni and a splash of sparkling water that lends the drink a fizzy touch to cut through the depth of the xacuti.
The other Goan curry which remains forever etched on my heart for its spicy and complex tang is a classic chicken vindaloo. With origins in Portuguese cuisine, the tangy taste of chicken vindaloo can be well-complemented by the nutty qualities of coconut water and the heavily tart flavours of urrack, brought together in the tropical cooler. While in Goa, head to one of the small, local restaurants which offer this dish and the drink on their menu to experience the delicious flavour combination.
Another interesting Goan preparation which is perfect for late dinners after spending the day climbing the Chapora Fort or walking along the Morjim beach is a comforting fish caldine curry. This can be paired with a mango feni slush and although it seems like a rather inventive pairing, the mildly spicy coconut curry paired with the sweet and tart cocktail makes for an interesting blend of tropical flavours. The cocktail is put together by blending 30 ml feni with a tablespoon of mango pulp, served chilled over a bed of crushed ice to give the drink a slushie-like feel.
The Classic Fish Fry
And when it comes to Goan fish recipe staples, fish fry ranks high on the list of foods that are simply must haves! And one of the finest places which is always on my list while in Goa is Vinayak. Standing in the long queues in rising, humid temperatures, waiting to be seated at small, crowded tables never gets dull because what awaits are delicious preparations ranging from a prawn rawa fry to a bombil masala to a surmai tawa fry, all of which are cooked in spicy and slightly sour Goan masalas.
This fish fry can be paired with a cool Konkani solkadhi made from dried kokum and coconut milk. Add 30 ml urrack to this drink to turn it into a spirited cocktail that can be paired with a crispy and sweet rawa fry in a classic combination of fish and solkadhi which has become a popular archetype of Konkani, coastal food and drink cultures.
Also Read: Goa’s Best Bars: A Guide to the City’s Top Drinking Spots
Drink Responsibly. This communication is for audiences above the age of 25.
