Mapping India’s Fermentation Heritage: Indigenous Brews & Their Cultural Legacy
In a country known for its centuries-old association with whisky and rum, and its growing love for gin and tequila, it's easy to forget that India’s relationship with alcohol predates colonial imports by at least a millennia. Indigenous brews—crafted from forest flowers, palm sap, native grains, and even fermented fruits—have long been a vital part of the Indian subcontinent's culinary fabric. And while you may get the occasional glimpse into one indigenous brew or the other in news reports, publications, even through influencers on social media, did you know that there are researchers working on documenting the history and impact of these brews?
In fact, at The Good Craft Co. in Whitefield, Bengaluru, there is a whole team of researchers and scientists dedicated to documenting the history and evolution of Indian fermentation traditions, reviving lost stories about them, and even curating new-age cocktails with these age-old brews. When you enter their Academy of Craft, what captures your eye first and foremost is a gigantic map of India on a wall, showcasing India’s traditional fermentation practices.
This fermentation map, curated by independent researcher and TGCC expert Aniruddha Mookerjee, is a one-of-a-kind visual and ethnographic documentation of this overlooked fermentation ecosystem. First presented at the Bangalore International Centre in 2018, this map was the result of decades of research, travel, and conversations with tribal and rural communities across India. “This map is based on primary research done across India... It was an attempt to show the variety and distribution of the prominent brews and spirits in India,” says Mookerjee. “It is time we reclaim what is truly ours.”
Why India’s Indigenous Brews Matter
In conversation with Mookerji and the team at TGCC, we discovered that the diversity of Indian indigenous brews is staggering. While global markets are waking up to concepts like terroir and craft spirits, India’s rural communities have quietly preserved hyperlocal fermentation practices for centuries and while they’re prevalent in some localities, they’re often missing from more mainstream conversations in the alcohol space.
Mapping A Living Tradition
To appreciate the significance of the fermentation map, one must understand its scope. Mookerjee didn’t simply record brews he encountered—he mapped them against geographies, ecosystems, communities, and linguistic zones. This visual tool demonstrates how ingredients like palm sap, mahua flowers, grains, and millets shape entire brewing practices across states.
Each zone on the map is represented by a colour, identifying a dominant indigenous brewing tradition in that region:
1. Palm & Cashew Feni (Goa)
Feni, made from either cashew apple or coconut palm sap, is one of India’s few brews to carry Geographical Indication (GI) status. Traditionally distilled in copper stills known as bhattis, feni remains a potent symbol of Goan identity and craftsmanship.
2. Coconut Toddy (Kerala, Tamil Nadu, Andhra Pradesh)
Extracted by slicing the tip of coconut palm flowers, toddy—locally called kallu or neera—ferments rapidly and is consumed fresh. It is sweet when tapped at dawn, sour by dusk, and completely transformed by midnight.
3. Palmyra Toddy (Tamil Nadu, Telangana)
Tapping the palmyra palm yields a cloudy, bittersweet brew. It’s often fermented in earthen pots and consumed unfiltered, offering earthy notes and moderate sweetness.
4. Date Palm Toddy (Bengal, Odisha)
Seasonally tapped in winter, this toddy is extracted from date palm trees (phoenix sylvestris). It holds special significance in rural Bengal.
5. Mahua (Madhya Pradesh, Chhattisgarh, Jharkhand, Odisha)
Mahua, made from the nectar-rich flowers of the madhuca longifolia tree, is both sacred and subversive. Often dubbed “the spirit of the forest,” it's crucial to Adivasi economies and is slowly being revived through small-scale, legal distilleries.
“There are minor differences in processes and techniques across regions... but mahua stands out as one of the few indigenous brews now reaching urban shelves,” notes Mookerjee.
6. Kesar Kasturi & Heritage Liqueurs (Rajasthan)
These are royal elixirs once brewed in the palaces of Udaipur and Jaipur—spirit bases infused with saffron, vetiver, nuts, and exotic spices. Rare today, these reflect a bygone culinary opulence.
7. Grain-Based Spirits & Rice Beer (Northeast India, Jharkhand)
Grains like rice, millet, and maize are fermented into beers like apong (Assam), zutho, and handia (Jharkhand). Fermentation cakes—made with herbs—act as natural starters.
8. Fishtail Palm Toddy (Tamil Nadu, South Andhra)
Extracted from the Caryota urens or fishtail palm, this sap ferments quickly and has a distinct, sharp taste. It’s rarer due to the short lifespan of the palm and the limited tappers.
9. Rice & Millet Brews (Chhattisgarh, Northeast India)
These fermented drinks range from mildly sour rice beers to potent millet-based spirits like kiat or chhang.
Tradition vs Industrialisation: A Tipping Point
Despite their historical continuity, many of these brews face an uncertain future. Industrial alcohol policies, lack of formal recognition, and social stigma have led to declining practice, especially among younger generations.
“Several of these brews are disappearing because of industrial alcohol dominance and urban neglect,” warns Mookerjee. “Yet local communities continue to preserve them because of their connection to identity and ritual.” This neglect isn't just cultural—it’s economic. With no legal avenues to monetise these brews, tribal communities often remain excluded from India's fast-growing alco-bev economy.
Also Read: How TGCC Turned July Into A Masterclass In Flavour With Gin Stories, Whisky Trails
TGCC: Reviving The Indian Brew Narrative
This is where TGCC steps in. As a collective of industry experts, researchers, bartenders, and revivalists, TGCC is creating space for indigenous brews through:
- Masterclasses & Tastings (including at TGCC Bengaluru 2025)
- Archival Research & Documentation
- Policy Advocacy for GI Tags & Legal Recognition
- Sustainable Sourcing & Brand Collaborations
“We’re working on creating archives, facilitating conversations with local producers, and encouraging responsible revival,” Mookerjee confirms.
Sustainability In A Glass
India’s indigenous brews are models of circular, low-waste production. They use:
- Wild or foraged ingredients (like mahua flowers or palmyra sap)
- Natural fermentation methods (no industrial yeasts)
- Minimal energy or water use
- Compostable equipment (like terracotta fermenters or bamboo taps)
This makes them perfect for a global drinks industry increasingly focused on ethical sourcing, zero waste, and localism. “They reflect sustainability not just in ingredients, but also in community knowledge and local ecosystems,” says Mookerjee.
The Road Ahead: From Local to Global
As awareness grows, some of these brews are finding second lives in modern mixology. Bartenders in Delhi, Mumbai, and Goa are experimenting with mahua-based cocktails, toddy negronis, and feni sours. There’s even talk around launching bottled toddy RTDs (ready-to-drink) and premium millet spirits.
The hope is that India can build its own craft spirit identity—rooted not in imitation of international models, but in celebration of its own traditions. “We see a strong future for indigenous spirits both in Indian metros and on global platforms,” Mookerjee says. “They are aligned with consumer trends like sustainability, authenticity, and regional storytelling.”
Paving The Way For A Spirited Renaissance
India’s fermentation map is more than a visual. It’s a manifesto—a call to rediscover, protect, and promote the country’s liquid heritage with sensitivity and respect for individual choices, including abstinence.
If you're a curious consumer, consider seeking out these brews. If you're in the industry, start a conversation. And if you're a policymaker, listen to communities who have long held on to these traditions against the tide.
Sidebar: Five Indigenous Brews You Must Try
1. Mahua – Floral, earthy and sweet. Try a G&T-style drink.
2. Feni – Goan classic. Excellent in tropical highballs.
3. Apong – Rice beer from Assam. Great with grilled meats.
4. Palm Toddy – Rustic, slightly sour. Drink fresh or mix with lime.
5. Kesar Kasturi – Luxurious Rajasthani liqueur. Sip after dinner.
*Drink Responsibly. This communication is for audiences above the age of 25.
