The Great Indian Bird Takes Flight: Notes On Godawan & The Making Of A Modern Classic
For Indians, whisky is cultural shorthand. Much like food, it is tied to rituals of kinship and celebration. Godawan is a spirit that honours this relationship in new and nuanced ways, writes Nikhil P Merchant.
SHERRY-CASK ANY SPIRIT and I am sold. It’s a flavour resonance that speaks deeply to Indian palates. When I first encountered Godawan No. 1, its honeysuckle notes, layered with intense caramel and dark cherries, landed lusciously on the nose. My introduction wasn’t just in a glass but at the Diageo World Class Bartender Semi-Finals in Mumbai, where I was judging. Godawan had been set as the cocktail base, and watching a gamut of budding mixologists craft around it proved one thing: it carried itself as a beautiful canvas for their creativity.
Flavour is always personal, but with whisky, India’s most beloved spirit for generations, there are certain nuances drinkers instinctively seek. Not the overt peat extravaganza, but a smidgen of smoke on the nose rather than the palate. And when it comes to single malts, sherry- and cherry-cask editions have consistently held sway as the gold standard for discerning Indian drinkers.
Does Time Really Shape The Way We Drink Today?
The shift began when single malts from Europe started arriving in India in earnest. It wasn’t simply a test market—after all, India is one of the world’s largest consumers of whisky. What followed was a clear influence: a recalibration of taste and, through targeted marketing activities—the slow appreciation of craft in a bottle.
Which is why Godawan feels oddly familiar, and yet has a sense of uniqueness which clearly defines its characteristics. Made in Rajasthan, in a desert that sees over 100°F on most days, this is a whisky that matures fast. The reason being the sun (and the desert sun can be harsh), pushes the oak and the spirit resting in it, into overdrive. This coaxes the depth and flavours quicker than colder places like Scotland—another reason why whisky-age in India is significantly inconsequential. But here’s the thing: what could have been just a gimmick ends up creating layers of character—honeyed fruit, spice, and just a hint of nuttiness.
I remember being served Godawan with a dash of water poured from a clay pot, and it made perfect sense. The element of earth and heat in relation to time, all came together in a rounded but rustic sip. Add to that the cask finishes, and botanicals like Rasna and Jatamansi which you will probably find in a pantry cabinet, all add a bit of spice flair rounding up the nuanced spirit notes in the glass. It is intriguing storytelling in liquid form and connecting the spirit to a landscape brings regionality in the forefront including the fact that each bottle is linked to the conservation of the endangered Great Indian Bustard, making it a versatile association of legacy.
At The Table, With Whisky
In India, whisky (or for that matter, alcohol) culture is to pour one before a meal. It could be to signal the start of an evening, a holdover from traditions that kept “drink” and “dining” apart, or just the way it’s always been done.
But that is shifting. As drinkers get more discerning, the old whisky-soda binary is giving way to malts that actually invite you to sip them with food. Godawan and its nuanced flavours don’t overwhelm your palate. Think of slow-cooked dals, buttery kebabs, biryani perfumed with saffron, even a simple plate of paneer in mellow gravy. On an experimental streak, I once added a dash of it to an Indian-inspired rose & pistachio tiramisu at one of the Durbar dinners, instead of the usual coffee liqueur, and it worked beautifully.
Chef Paul Kinny, who has spent years building dining experiences at The St. Regis Mumbai, sees the parallels clearly. For him, slow craft in Indian cooking is no different from whisky-making—it’s in the patience of a dum biryani sealed for hours, the layering of a Rogan Josh over a gentle flame, or the ritual of rabri simmered endlessly in a wide pan. “These traditions aren’t just recipes, they’re acts of preservation,” he tells me, “honouring the time, effort, and emotion that go into them.” It’s this same lens of authenticity and process that makes him believe whisky like Godawan belongs at the table. His picks? Rogan Josh, with its aromatic spices balanced by Godawan’s warmth, and Hyderabadi Sofiyani Dum Biryani, where saffron and rice match the whisky’s floral, oaky tones.
Similarly, Akshay Singh, Head Mixologist at Siren Cocktail Bar, sees it through possibility. “Just as wine has carved out its role with Indian cuisine, whisky too can complement the richness of our meals if you approach it with the same thoughtfulness,” he says. For him, Godawan’s honey, dried fruit, and gentle spice sit naturally alongside Indian flavours like fennel, cardamom, saffron, and even jaggery. Its texture, velvety and rounded, echoes what you find in ghee-rich dals or slow-cooked curries.
Akshay imagines Godawan as a course-led companion — highball with citrus and a touch of Himalayan salt alongside chaat or tandoor vegetables, then neat with lamb curry or black dal, and finally a sweet ending: saffron phirni or jaggery payasam, where the whisky’s honeyed notes resound so seamlessly with dessert dishes.
And then there’s Hedonist at the Fairmont Mumbai, the city’s swankiest new bar and perhaps its most anticipated opening, a space that leans into art deco glamour and a distinct jazz sensibility. Bar Manager Piyush Sidral frames whisky here as part of a performance: “Each sip feels like part of the music, first the aroma, then the taste, then the smooth finish. Music, mood, and whisky come together to remind you to pause and enjoy time as it flows.” His vision of Godawan is cinematic—low lights, a band easing into a soft jazz tune, a pour of Godawan 02 glowing golden in the room, paired with a small bite of chicken karaage with curry leaves. Not so much drinking as listening with all your senses.
The age of whisky with food, and with atmosphere, isn’t a far-fetched transition. It’s already here. Godawan is simply the one reminding us to notice.
Drink responsibly. This communication is intended only for individuals above the legal drinking age of 25.
About the author:
Nikhil Merchant is a Mumbai-based F&B consultant, lifestyle and luxury writer, and goes by Nonchalant Gourmand, where he fuses culinary storytelling with cocktail craft. His work spans national and international publications, and he also consults on restaurant menus, beverage programs, and concept design at his company Elevenses Hospitality. He can be found on Instagram @nonchalantgourmand.
